ROPE SPLICING
This section deals only with 3 stranded ropes.
Rope splicing in rope-work is the forming of a semi-permanent joint between two ropes or two parts of the same rope by partly untwisting and then interweaving their strands. Splices can be used to form a stopper at the end of a line, to form a loop or an eye in a rope, or for joining two ropes together. Splices are preferred to knotted rope, since while a knot reduces the strength by as much as 40% or more, some splices can retain up to 95% of the strength of the line. However, splicing usually results in a thickening of the line and if subsequently removed a distortion of the rope. Most types of splices are used on 3 strand rope, but some can be done on 12 or greater strand braided rope.
SPLICING TOOLS:
Although not necessarily required, the tools listed here can make the splice easier to weave:
- Sharp knife or scissors
- Black Marker
- Masking or Plastic Electricians tape
- Whipping material - Used to finish a splice to prevent unraveling.
- Lighter or candle - For synthetic ropes (i.e. nylon) melt cut ends to prevent fraying (to be done prior to whipping).
- Fid - Is a hand tool made from wood, plastic, or bone and is used in the process of working with rope. It is conical instrument with a somewhat long taper. A variety of fid diameters are available depending on the size of rope being used.
- Marlinspike - A tool, commonly part of a sailor's pocketknife, used to separate strands of rope from one another. It is basically a 3"-4" steel spike, slightly curved, with a non-sharp point that tapers quickly out to a 1/4" to 3/8" shaft in the space of the first 1" length.
DEFINITIONS:
Crown - Equals one twist of a stranded rope.
BACK SPLICE
A splice where the strands at the end of the rope are spliced directly back into the end without forming a loop. It is used to finish off the end of the rope to keep it from fraying or separating. The end of the rope with the splice is about twice the thickness of the rest of the rope.
To create this splice:
STEP 1:
Tape the main body of line 6 (good for 1/4" or 3/8" rope) or more crowns (the thicker the rope the more crowns should be used) from its end to keep it from unraveling. Un-lay the strands and tape the ends of the strands. Lay the right-hand strand across the other two as shown.
IMAGE 1
STEP 2:
Tuck the left-hand strand over the first strand, behind the center strand and back over the right-hand strand. Remove tape from main line and pull all strands snug. (For heavy or stiff rope use a Fid or Marlinspike to lift the strands.)
IMAGE 2
STEP 3:
Tuck the strands in sequence, over and under the strands in the main body of the line, working against the twist as in the short splice.
IMAGE 3
STEP 4:
Prior to cutting the protruding ends, roll the splice to smooth out (this can be done with your hands with 1/4" to 1/2" diameter or with your foot with larger ropes. After smoothing the splice, clip the protruding ends. If the rope is made of nylon, use a lighter or candle to melt the ends, being careful not to damage the standing portion of the rope. If the rope is made of natural material (manila) the splice should be finished with a Whipping Knot.
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EYE SPLICE
The eye splice is the best method of creating a permanent loop in the end of multi stranded rope by means of rope splicing. The ends of the rope are tucked (plaited) back into the standing end to form the loop. Originally this splice was described with each end being tucked only about three times. When the splice was made in tarred hemp or cotton this was reasonably safe. With modern synthetic ropes, five complete tucks is a minimum and additional tucks are recommended for critical loads.
To create this splice:
STEP 1:
Wrap a length of sticky tape at a distance of approximately 12" from the rope end. (This will make an eye that will be approximately 6" long. If you need a shorter or longer eye, adjust accordingly.)
NOTE: If you are making an anchor rode with a thimble, you must place the thimble into the loop prior to starting the weave. The loop must be completely seated in the loop when completed.
Then unravel the three strands (the tape stops then un-raveling further than we require).
Wrap tape around each end to stop the fibers within each strand from separating, (can also slightly melt the end of each strand with a lighter, to make threading even easier).
IMAGE 1
Note: The strands have been daubed with color for illustration purposes; there is no need to do this on your rope!
STEP 2:
Lay the rope flat (as shown) and decide how big you wish your loop to be.
Position the three strands as shown and, at the position where you wish the loop to terminate, feed the central strand through one coiled strand of the rope (to do this, you need to gently pry a strand away from the coil without deforming its lay).
IMAGE 2
Note the direction the strand feeds through the coil, it must travel at right angles to the laid strands and in a direction away from the loop.
THIMBLE
STEP 3:
Continue with the second strand. Feed it through an adjacent strand on the coil.
Make sure both strands feed through at exactly the same point along the rope BUT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.
IMAGE 3
STEP 4:
Now turn the rope over and feed the remaining strand through the last strand of the rope. Again, it must feed through at the same point along the rope so that all three strands lie adjacent to each other.
Keep the same direction away from the loop, it may look odd at this stage but once tightened will lay correctly.
IMAGE 4
STEP 5:
Now start to pull all 3 strands through the rope evenly. Note how they are all aligned along the rope (the red is hidden at the back).
IMAGE 5
It's crucial to get the first weave correct so that all following weaves lay correctly.
Pull the three strands tight.
STEP 6:
Now continue to weave by threading each strand through one coil in turn. Do this by passing the strand over a coil and then under the following coil.
Once each strand has been threaded once, pull the weave tight by tugging on each strand in turn. Keep them as tight as possible.
IMAGE 6
This picture shows the blue strand starting its second weave with the red strand already threaded twice.
STEP 7:
Continue weaving. Remember to keep the strands tight.
IMAGE 7
This picture shows 3 weaves completed for each strand with the red strand starting its fourth by passing over and then under a rope coil.
STEP 8:
Weaving is now complete. You need a minimum of 5 weaves for each strand, 6 are completed in the image.
IMAGE 8
STEP 9:
Roll the splice between your hands, with pressure applied, to smooth the splice. You may also want to pull each strand (hold by the eye) to insure that there is no slack in any of the weavings.
Trim each strand by leaving a stub of 1/4" or so. If the rope is made of nylon, use a lighter or candle to melt the ends, being careful not to damage the standing portion of the rope. If the rope is made of natural material (manila) the splice should be finished with a Whipping Knot.
NOTE: If you have installed a thimble into the eye, it is recommended that a whipping knot should also be placed at the point where the splice started. This will help insure that the thimble is secured inside the loop.
The finished splice should look something like this:
IMAGE 9
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SHORT SPLICE
A splice used to join the ends of two ropes, but the short splice is more similar to the technique used in other splices and results in the spliced part being about twice as thick as the non-spliced part, and has greater strength than the long splice. The short splice retains more of the rope strength than any knots that join rope ends.
To create this splice:
STEP 1:
Begin by un-laying (untwisting) the ropes a few turns (at least 3" for 1/4" and 3/8", more is required for heavier ropes). Place a tie (made with whipping cord) at the ends of the un-twisted rope. Wrap tape around each strand or if the rope is large, make temporary whippings on the ends of the strands.
STEP 2:
Place the two ropes together by alternating the strands of the two ropes.
IMAGE 1
STEP 3:
Tie strands down to prevent more un-laying. Once this step is done, remove the two ties that you placed on the ropes initially.
IMAGE 2
STEP 4:
Tuck strand 1 over an opposing strand and under the next strand.
IMAGE 3
STEP 5:
Tuck of strand 2 goes over strand 5, under the second, and out between the second and third.
IMAGE 4
STEP 6:
Repeat operation with strands 1 and 3 from same rope end.
IMAGE 5
STEP 7:
Remove tie and repeat operation on other rope end. Make AT LEAST five or more tucks for with each strand. Trim each strand by leaving a stub of 1/2" or so.
IMAGE 6
STEP 8:
Then roll the tucks and cut off ends. (You can smooth the splice by rolling it between your hands or under your foot on the floor (heavier ropes).) If the rope is made of nylon, use a lighter or candle to melt the ends, being careful not to damage the standing portion of the rope. If the rope is made of natural material (manila) the splice should be finished with a Whipping Knot.
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