Have You Been Wondering What Knife To Buy?
Check out these articles to help you!
How To Read Product Description
A Glossary Of Knife Terms
4 STEPS TO BUYING THE RIGHT KNIFE
The following steps will give you some idea what to expect of a knife, depending upon how you intend or want to use it.
1. How will you use it?
- Everyday:
Do you plan on using it as a pocket knife that you will carry and do simple chores such as cleaning your finger nails, opening envelopes or slitting the tape on a box, maybe cut some string or twine? If these are your expectations a simple one or two bladed knife, with a maximum blade length of 3" should suffice.
- Outdoor:
(Backpacking, Climbing, Hiking, Camping): Do you plan on doing chores around a camp such as cutting rope, shaving wood to create kindling, prepare a meal or other things that pop up around a campsite? Then you are going to want a knife that has more heft and blade length than a pocket knife. These are usually what a termed a folding knife, they are less intrusive then a fixed blade knife and come in blade lengths that range from 3.5" to 5". Depending on size and your preference they can either be carried in a pocket or a belt sheath.
- Hunting/Fishing:
Are you field dressing or skinning game, cleaning/filleting fish? If this is what you desire in a knife, then typically you would want a fixed blade knife with a blade length of 4" to 6" for the cleaning of game. If you are thinking in terms of cleaning or fileting a fish, then you are going to want a knife that has a thin flexible blade. A good all-around blade length for this type of knife is 6", although you can get them shorter or longer.
Either type of knife can come in fixed blade or folding styles. Just remember that a fixed blade knife is inherently stronger than a folding knife and if you expect to use them around areas where they can become dirty with blood, the fixed blade style knife is easier to clean then the folding knife.
- Tactical/Survival:
Do you need a heavy-duty knife that won't fail? This type of knife can also come in fixed blade or folding style. No, matter which style you chose these knives will typically be heftier and stronger with blades that run up to 12". The length of the knife is important in that the longer the blade the more unwieldy it becomes to use. Another item is that these knives can be of plain or serrated style. If you expect to cut through heavy rope or branches then the serrated edge my be important, as this can be used as a saw.
- Limited Edition/Custom:
Are you a knife collector? If you are looking for a knife that will potentially increase in value over time, then you will want to consider the limited edition or one-of-a-kind custom knife. These knives are not intend as working knives (although they can be) because of the value. The handles on these knives tend to be made of more exotic materials, such as mother-of-pearl, ivory, rare woods, etc. They are beautiful to behold and make for great display items.
2. What features are important to you?
- Fixed-blade knife:
Always ready for use and dependable. Inherently stronger than folding knives but and usually must be carried in a sheath and not easily concealed.
- Folding knife:
Compact, safer to carry; improved dependability with locking blade. Not as strong as a fixed blade knife, but can be used for many of the same things that a fixed blade knife can. Remember that if you want to carry any knife in a pocket (or concealed) that many jurisdictions have maximum requirements in blade lengths to be legal.
- One-Handed Opening Knife:
Has a thumb stud, blade hole or other feature to facilitate one-hand use. Some models are one-hand opening and one-hand closing as well.
- Gutting/skinning Blade Knife:
For field dressing or skinning of game. Once again you can get these in fixed blade or folding styles.
- Thick Blade Knife:
For heavy-duty tasks. These knives are typically of the fixed blade style, but once agin they are also available as folding knives.
- Light Weight Knife:
Use of composite or other materials to minimize weight. These knives tend to be sharper than steel bladed knives, they also retain their sharpness longer. With that being said they are harder to re-sharpen, and should only be attempted by a knowledgeable person.
- Saw Edge Knife (Serrarted):
For cutting wood or bone. These knives are also called serrated blade knives. They come in two styles - fully serrated or partially serrated. The fully serrated style has serrations running from the hilt to just short of the tip. The parially serrated blades have serrations that start at the hilt and run between 1/4 to 1/2 the blade length. In either case they are more difficult to re-sharpen then plain style blades and require special type hones to sharpen them.
- Sharpness:
Stays sharp and is easy to sharpen.
3. What is it made of and why?
- Knife Blade Materials:
A good blade steel combines good edge retention, ease of re-sharpening and rust resistance.
- S30V is the best blade steel available. It is a high vanadium stainless steel with even higher edge retention.
- ATS-34 and BG-42 are two custom steels with much higher carbon content, giving them higher hardness ratings and dramatically higher edge retention.
- 420HC is a stainless steel that provides excellent rust resistance, is easy to re-sharpen and has good edge retention.
- Knife handle materials:
A good handle should feel solid and well constructed when you hold it. We suggest you consider a handle style and material that meets your needs and suits your preference. Appearance may also be a consideration, man-made materials such as, micarta, nylon and rubber are rugged and will take lots of rough use, while a knife handle made from wood, decorative stones or horn may not be. A knife that is ergonomically designed will always feel more comortable and fit your hand better than a straight handle.
- A rubber or textured handle provides a sure grip in wet conditions.
- A wooden handle adds beauty to the knife.
- Plastic/composite handles are durable under extreme conditions.
4. Does it offer an unconditional lifetime warranty?
- You want a knife that is crafted from high quality materials and will deliver reliable performance. If it should ever fail you, be sure the maker stands behind it. Quality manufacturers will provide an unconditional lifetime warranty on their products (unless the knife has been misused).
Legal Notice to Customers:
By purchasing product(s) on this website, you agree that you have read, understood and complied with the following:
Due to the complex and changing nature of knife laws, it is your responsibility, not HIGH CALIBER KNIVES', to investigate and comply with international, federal, state and local laws relating to the purchase, possession, use, transport and resale of knives. Consult applicable laws if you are in doubt. By placing an order, you represent that the product(s) will be used in a lawful manner and you are of legal age. Absolutely no sales will be made to minors. You agree to hold HIGH CALIBER KNIVES harmless from failure to comply with these terms and conditions of sale.
HIGH CALIBER KNIVES MAKE FOR GOOD HUNTING OR FISHING
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HOW TO READ KNIFE PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONS.
This brief glossary and explanation of terms is provided to help customers understand the terms we use in the descriptions on our knife product pages. Please feel free to e-mail us if something isn't clear.
Blade Shape:
There are literally hundreds of traditional knife blade shapes. Here are descriptions of some of the most common types used in modern knives:
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Clip Point Blade:
The clip blade is a classic shape and very practical. It's name describes a shape that seems to have a portion of the spine of the blade clipped off. It provides ample "belly" in the blade for slicing or skinning and a good tip for inserting in and
under things that need to be cut. The clip blade is a classic knife shape and very practical. Its name describes a shape that seems to have a portion of the spine of the blade clipped off. It provides ample "belly" in the blade for slicing or skinning and a good tip for inserting in and under things that need to be cut.
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Drop Point Blade:
The drop point is another classic knife shape with a spine that tapers downward toward the tip. This profile is good for almost all cutting chores.
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Tanto Point Blade:
Like the one on this knife was inspired by the shape of the Japanese sword blades. The tanto has a reinforced point which is good for heavy duty stabbing cuts.
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Hawkbill Blade (Talon Blade):
The hawkbill knife (sometimes known as a Talon Blade) blade has a concave curved edge which provides a tip that cuts. This type of blade is used for things like carpet knives or scoring blades and even slashing blades in tactical knives, like the one shown here.
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Spear Point Blade:
The classic knife stabbing blade is the spear point which can have two edges sharpened or only one with a false edge on the spine. The spear point usually has both edges taper equally to a point but sometimes has different profiles for the spine and edge.
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Upswept Blade:
Similar to the clip blade, the upswept knife blade has its tip higher than the spine.
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Wharncliffe Blade:
The Wharncliffe blade has a straight edge and a spine that tapers to the tip. If the knife taper is abrupt at the tip, the blade is called a sheepsfoot. This blade profile is excellent for scoring and other applications where the point is used in slicing cuts.
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A plain knife edge means a plain edge like the wharncliffe knife blade above. Some blades are serrated (like a bread knife) and some are partially serrated to provide a serrated section at the back of the blade and a plain edge section at the front of the blade. The tanto blade above is an example of a partially serrated blade. Partially serrated blades are often called combo blades.
Serrations provide two advantages. The first is that they will cut when dull better than a plain knife edge. The other is that sawing cuts such as cutting rope is easier with serrations. That's why bread knives in the kitchen are usually serrated. The combo or partially serrated blade provides some of the benefit of both types. The
disadvantage of serrations is that they are hard to sharpen and don't work well for some applications such as whittling or carving. Basically they are designed for slicing or sawing cuts.
Generally, we recommend plain knife edges for their ease of sharpening. A sharp plain knife edge will do an excellent job with almost every type of cut required. If you don't like to sharpen knives and allow them to get dull, then the serrated knife edge will be a benefit because it will perform better when dull. If your application
benefits from serrations such as cutting fresh bread or cutting seatbelts for rescue personnel, then they are the best choice for these special applications.
Blade Material:
Knife blade steel comes in two basic varieties - carbon steel and stainless steel. Carbon steel is tougher, able to hold an edge better and outperforms stainless steel in every respect except for corrosion resistance. Carbon steel rusts and discolors easily. Stainless steel replaces some of the carbon in the steel alloy with chromium to make it resistant to corrosion. However,
there is a tradeoff. As stain resistance increases, the ability for the blade to hold an edge decreases. Conversely as stain resistance decreases, the overall performance of the blade increases.
Most knife blades are made from what is generally called high carbon stainless steel. It has a good amount of carbon in the alloy (unlike the kitchen sink) to make the steel hard enough to maintain an edge for use as a knife blade. Some of the most common steels in this category are the 440 series and the AUS series. These steels are very popular with knife makers and provide a good balance between performance and price.
There are many high tech knife steels available today for use in knife blades. Not only is there some variance in the balance between chromium and carbon but there are other metals in the alloy that lend special characteristics to the blade. These steel alloys normally produce a steel that is less stain resistant than typical cutlery stainless steels but also hold an edge for a longer period of use or provide additional toughness or other characteristics. They have names like S30V, VG-10, 154-CM etc. It is not our purpose to publish a guide to the various steels. We recommend you visit the Spyderco web site to read their well documented analysis of various knife blade steels.
Some knife blades are made from titanium, which is light and anti-magnetic. This is not as practical for cutting as steel but useful in those applications where its benefits are important. As an example, the military employs some titanium knives for use around explosives where their anti-magnetic property provides improved safety.
There are also some cobalt alloys that are used successfully in knife blades. Talonite and Boye Dendritic Cobalt are two examples. These knife blades are completely rust-resistant and still perform well as knife blades although they are expensive. This type of material is often found in knives that are used in and around salt water.
Zirconium oxide is a very hard ceramic material that is also used in knife blades. Ceramic blades hold an edge longer than any other material and are completely corrosion resistant. The downside to these knife blades is that they are brittle and can snap or chip in use. They cannot be used for prying at all and are difficult to
sharpen.
Blade Hardness:
Blade hardness is yet another issue. Knife steel is hardened by quenching the heated metal quickly in a bath of oil or other liquid material. This process causes the carbides in the steel to form. Knife steels with more carbon will get harder on the Rockwell scale and steels with less will harden to a lesser degree. Often, the steel is then tempered by heating and cooling it slowly to reduce hardness to the final intended level.
There is a tradeoff here as well. Harder steel will hold an edge longer, naturally, but will be more brittle (less tough) and harder to sharpen. Softer steel will be tougher and easier to sharpen but won't hold an edge as well. Most modern high tech stainless steels are hardened to RC 58 to 60 which is a pretty good range for most cutlery applications. The more "stainless" stainless steels will be a little softer in the area of RC 55 to 58. Carbon steels are normally hardened even less to provide more toughness. RC 52 to 58 is a typical range. Carbon steels still provide better knife blade edge retention than stainless steels so they can be made softer (tougher) without losing edge performance.
If you don't like to sharpen knives, then you may want to opt for a harder stainless steel like the exotics. If you need toughness in the knife for prying or digging or chopping, then stay with carbon steels or, at least, a softer form of stainless steel.
We've generally left hardness specifications out of these descriptions. Generally, choose carbon steel for toughness or any application where stain resistance isn't important. Go with one of the high tech exotic stainless steels (ATS-34, VG-10 etc.) if knife blade edge retention is more important than stain resistance. For the vast majority of knives the more common types of stainless are a great compromise and probably the best choice for people who sharpen their knives regularly.
Blade Finish:
There are several ways to finish a knife blade. The steel itself can be polished, satin finished or even bead blasted. Polishing is attractive but expensive. It is also considered too reflective for use in a tactical or military knife. Satin is less shiny since the blade has been ground but not polished. This is the least expensive of the popular knife finishes. Bead blasting provides a textured gray finish to the steel. It is popular in tactical knives because it is less reflective. On the downside, bead blasting collects and holds moisture better than other finishes and, so, can allow the knife blade to rust more easily.
Some blades are coated to provide moisture protection or even to improve blade performance. Titanium Nitride (TiNi) is an example of a very hard material that is used as a blade coating which can actually help the knife hold an edge better. TiNi is available in several colors. Teflon is a popular blade coating which protects blades from corrosion forming moisture and which makes a blade less reflective. Many black blades are coated with Teflon.
Handle Materials:
Classic pocket knives have handles made of many natural and man made materials. These included bone, deer antler, ivory, mother of pearl, wood, stainless steel and celluloid (plastic). The industry has added a whole new group of high-tech materials to knife handles and some of these are described below:
Titanium is a metal known to be harder but lighter than steel. While stainless steel handled knives are usually on the heavy side, titanium provides the toughness and durability of a metal handle without so much weight.
Carbon Fiber, also known as graphite, is a woven carbon material that is very tough and yet light. Besides being used as a knife handle material, it is used for countless things ranging from golf club shafts to race car wings. It is black, hard and smooth with the woven texture visible.
G-10 is another high tech material used in tactical knives. This material is also hard, dense and yet light and is made up of layers of impregnated fabric. It is machined like metal. It provides a secure grip on the knife handle and is popular in higher priced tactical knives.
Micarta is basically layers of fabric or paper that are impregnated with plastic and is available in many colors. Micarta knife handles are smooth and attractive and yet strong enough to provide good performance as a knife handle. They can be polished to a high luster. White micarta makes a good substitute for elephant ivory.
Zytel is a brand name of a thermoplastic compound (made by DuPont) that is molded into knife handles. Zytel is tough and practical as a knife handle material and inexpensive because it is molded. You will find this material in many reasonably priced and mid range tactical knives. There are other molded thermoplastics used in knife handles with other names and they provide similar performance and benefits.
Kraton is a textured soft rubber material that provides an outstanding grip on fixed blade knives. The downside to this material is that it is relatively soft and can chip out. Kraton trades off grip security for durability. Some folding knives have Kraton inserts in an otherwise metal or thermoplastic handle to improve grip security.
Locks:
Modern tactical folders are locking knives and there are several locking mechanisms available in modern knives. The classic mechanism is the lock-back which provides a spring that operates vertically and snaps into a cutout in the tang of the knife blade. The lock is released by pressing the spring on the back of the knife handle. The lock-back is secure and strong. It normally requires two hands to operate, though. The liner lock has a sprung section of the liner which moves inward from the side to press against the back of the tang to lock the blade. The liner lock is not as secure as the lock-back but has the advantage being easy to operate with one hand. It is very common in tactical knives.
There are some new and improved locking mechanisms on the market. One of these is the "integral" lock pioneered by Chris Reeve and incorporated in other brands of titanium handled knives as well. This lock is similar to the liner lock but instead of the thin liner moving over to lock the blade, the entire thickness of the titanium handle does the job. This type of lock provides the convenient, one-handed operability of the liner lock with significantly more strength and safety.
A more recent innovation is the rolling lock which uses a spring activated pin to snap over the knife blade tang to lock it. This type of lock has a button on one or both sides of the handle to allow the user to pull the pin backward to unlock the pin and close the knife. You can find this type of lock in products from SOG, Camillus, Benchmade and others. It is very strong and secure but more expensive and complex.
Generally, it is safe to say that if a properly functioning lock fails then the user was using the knife in a fashion for which the knife was not intended. All the locking mechanisms from liner lock to rolling lock are strong enough for knives being used properly.
Sheaths
Almost all fixed blade knives and even some pocket knives and multi-tools are supplied with a sheath or scabbard for carrying the knife. Most sheaths are worn on a belt, although there are sheaths which are carried in a boot or even around the neck. Some employ a loop to accept the belt and others have a clip for the purpose.
- Leather is the classic knife sheath material. It is attractive and relatively inexpensive. The downside is that leather, a natural material, can wear and even rot if subjected to too much moisture.
- Ballistic Nylon (Cordura is a popular brand) is light and reasonably inexpensive. It cannot rot if wet and makes a durable and useful sheath material.
The latest innovation is known as Kydex or Concealex , which is a molded thermoplastic material. Kydex knife sheaths are molded to the exact profile of the knife. They hold the knife securely and the knife actually snaps out of the sheath when drawn. It is hard and very resistant to abrasion. It is waterproof and impervious to rot. The downside is that Kydex or Concealex knife sheaths are more expensive than other materials.
It is hoped this will help guide you through some of the necessarily short descriptions of the knives identified in our product pages and in our ordering database. Please contact us at questions@highcaliberknives.com if you have additional questions about our descriptions.
Legal Notice to Customers:
By purchasing product(s) on this website, you agree that you have read, understood and complied with the following:
Due to the complex and changing nature of knife laws, it is your responsibility, not HIGH CALIBER KNIVES', to investigate and comply with international, federal, state and local laws relating to the purchase, possession, use, transport and resale of knives. Consult applicable laws if you are in doubt. By placing an order, you represent that the product(s) will be used in a lawful manner and you are of legal age. Absolutely no sales will be made to minors. You agree to hold HIGH CALIBER KNIVES' harmless from failure to comply with these terms and conditions of sale.
HIGH CALIBER KNIVES MAKE FOR GOOD HUNTING OR FISHING
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A GLOSSARY OF KNIFE TERMS
A knife blade may look simple, but there's a lot that goes into the making of a quality knife blade that will have the strength and edge-retention that ensures consistent, reliable performance for years. Here's a useful compilation of knife terminology used to describe the properties that must be considered.
If there is a particular word, phrase or anything that you don't understand here, please feel free to contact us at questions@highcaliberknives.com and we'll try to explain what we can. If you feel that a term is not accurately or fully defined, we welcome you to send us your description of that term.
ALLOY STEEL
Knife steel that has been enhanced with additional elements (chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, nickel) is called alloy steel.
ANODIZE
An electro-chemical process which adds color to titanium, which is especially conducive to this coloring process. Depending on the voltage used, colors can vary (high voltage = dark color, low voltage = light color).
BACK
The back of the knife blade is the opposite side of the belly, for single edged pocket or bowie knives this would be the unsharpened side. The knife back can contain lashing grommets, jimping, it's own edge or false edge, and serrations.
BEAD BLASTING
A process by which steel, aluminum, and titanium are finished. Bead blasting is commonly found on tactical folding knives and fixed or bowie knife blades, for it provides a 100% subdued, non-glare finish.
Belly
The belly is the curving part of the knife blade edge. Bellies enhance slicing and may be plain or serrated. One note, the point of the knife becomes less sharp the larger the belly is. When choosing a knife you should decide whether penetration or slicing is the most important, and keep the design of this part of the knife in mind.
Bevel
The bevel is the sloping area(s) that fall from the knife blade spine towards the edge and false edge of the knife blade.
Blade
See Knife Blade Steels.
BLADE GRINDS
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Hollow Grind
The most common grind, found on the majority of custom and production pieces. Hollow ground knife blades have a thin edge that continues upwards, and is the grind is produced on both sides of the blade. Since the cutting edge is relatively thin, there is very little drag when cutting. Example of knives with hollow ground knife blades: Kershaw Ti-ATS-34.
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Semi-Hollow Grind
Creates a nice balance between a sharp edge and overall blade strength. It is the most common grind used today.
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Flat Grind
Flat grinds are characterized by the tapering of the knife blade from the spine down to the cutting edge. This style of grind is also referred to as a "V" grind, since the cross section of this grind resembles that letter. The chisel grind, a popular style for tactical knife blades, is a variation of the flat grind. On a chisel round blade, it is ground on one side, and on the other it is not. These knife blades are easier to sharpen, because you sharpen one side only. Example of a knife with a chisel ground blade would be the Benchmade 970, Ernest Emerson CQC7. Examples of knives with a flat grind are the Benchmade, Mel Pardue 850 and Spyderco's C36 Military model.
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Concave Grind
Similar to the flat grind in that the knife blade tapers from the spine to the cutting edge, except the taper lines are arcs instead of straight lines.
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Convex Grind
Similar to the flat grind in that the knife blade tapers from the spine to the cutting edge, except the taper lines are arcs extending outward instead of inward as in the concave grind above or straight lines. If you picture a pumpkin seed, you will get a good idea of what the cross sectional view of this grind is like. Noted custom knife maker Bill Moran is credited for bringing the convex grind into the focus of knife making.
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Chisel Grind
The chisel grind is ground on only one side of the knife blade. It's easy to produce and easy to sharpen. It is often ground at around 30 degrees which contributes to a thin and sharp edge.
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Sabre
The sabre grind has flat edge bevels that typically begin about the middle part of the knife blade and runs flatly to the edge. The edge is often left thick and thickens quickly past the edge. This is a great grind for chopping and other hard uses.
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Scandinavian Single-Bevel
The Scandinavian single-bevel grind looks similar to a sabre grind. The difference between the two grinds is that the Scandinavian single-bevel grind has no secondary edge bevels. This grind has an extremely thin and incredibly sharp edge.
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BLADE SHAPES
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Clip Point
A clip blade is like a normal blade with a clip off the tip (usually concave in shape) to make the tip thinner and sharper. The back edge of the clip may have a second sharpened edge, called a cut swedge. The sharp tip makes the blade exceptional as a pick, or for cutting in tight places. If the clip is sharpened, this working knife may double as a fighting knife. This is an extremely popular blade although not a strong as a spey. The Bowie design offers a clipped blade that's good for fighting, with the strength of a spey.
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Dagger/Double Edge
A double edge knife blade is sharpened on both sides ending with the point aligned with the spine, in the middle of the knife blade.
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Drop Point
The drop-point knife blade has lowered tip via a convex arc. This lowers the point for extra control and also leaves the strength. This type of knife blade also has a good-sized belly for better slicing.
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Hook Blade
A hook blade has one sharpened edge that curves in a concave manner. Often used for skinning and rescue knives. Also known as a gut hook, this blade shape is best for opening the flesh of game.
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Modified - Clip Point
A clip blade is like a normal blade with a clip off the tip (usually straight in shape) to make the tip thinner and sharper. The back edge of the clip may have a second sharpened edge, called a cut swedge. The sharp tip makes the blade exceptional as a pick, or for cutting in tight places. If the clip is sharpened, this working knife may double as a fighting knife. This is an extremely popular blade although not a strong as a spey. The Bowie design offers a clipped blade that's good for fighting, with the strength of a spey.
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Normal
A normal blade (a.k.a. single-edge) has a curved edge and flat back. The flat back lets one use fingers to concentrate force, which makes the knife heavier and stronger for its size. The curve concentrates force, making cutting easier. Therefore, it can chop as well as pick and slice. The single-edge is less expensive to produce than a double-edge.
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Pen Blade
Pen knives were designed in the days of quill pens. Their purpose was to sharpen the points of the quills. The Pen Blade was the perfect blade for sharpening and splitting the point.
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Sheepsfoot
The spine of this knife blade curves downward to meet the edge. This leaves virtually no point. This type of knife blade typically has little or virtually no belly and is used mainly for slicing applications.
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Scimitar
This is a curved knife blade with the edge on the convex side.
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Spear Point
The point of this knife blade is exactly in the center of the knife blade and both edges are sharpened. The point drops all the way down the center of the knife blade.
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Spey
A very useful blade for working with livestock and for carvers.
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Tanto
The point to this style knife blade is in line with the spine of the knife blade. This leaves the point thick and strong. There are quite a few different variations of how tanto knife blades are designed. The way the front edge meets the bottom edge, whether at an obtuse angle or a curve is one difference. You will also find differences in the point being clipped or not and whether there is a chisel grind.
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Trailing Point
The trailing point knife blade's point is higher than the spine. This is typically engineered with an extended belly for slicing, with the point up and out of the way.
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Blade Spine
This is the thickest part of a knife blade. On a single-edge, flat-ground bowie knife, the knife blade spine would be at the back of the knife blade. For double-edged knife blades, the knife blade spine would be found right down the middle.
KNIFE BLADE STEELS
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A2
A popular grade of cold work die tool steel. It has better wear resistance and toughness than O1 plus the dimensional stability offered by air hardening qualities. it's properties are more advantageous to certain types of knife making. More prone to rust and staining compared to "stainless steels".
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AUS-8
(also referred to as 8A) Commonly found in a Kitchen Knife Set, the words "stainless steel" are misleading, because, in fact all steel will stain or show discoloration if left in adverse conditions for a sufficient time. Steel is made "stainless" by adding Chromium and reducing its Carbon content during the smelting process. Some authorities claim that there is a serious performance trade off with stainless steel: As the Chrome increases and the Carbon decreases, the steel becomes more "stainless". But it also becomes more and more difficult to sharpen and, some claim, the edge-holding potential is seriously impaired. We have found that most stainless steel knife blades are as sharp as other material knife blades and hold the edge longer. AUS-8A is a high carbon, low chromium stainless steel that has proven, over time, to be a very good compromise between toughness, strength, edge holding and resistance to corrosion. (some text courtesy of Boker Knife Company)
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ATS-34
A premium grade of stainless steel used by most custom knife makers and upper echelon factory knives. Also common with the making of quality tactical folding knives or production collectible pocket knives. It is Japanese steel, owned by Hitachi Steel. The American made equivalent of ATS-34 is 154CM, a steel popularized by renowned maker Bob Loveless. Boker pocket knives are usually made of ATS-34.
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BG-42
The correct name for this steel is Lescalloy BG42 VIM-VAR. This is a high performance bearing steel made by Latrobe Steel Company in Latrobe, PA. A special manufacturing process combined with a very specific alloy results in a clean steel with good resistance to wear and corrosion. This type of steel is used for domestic, international and military aerospace applications. When compared with other types of steel, BG42 demonstrates superiority in areas of hardness, hot hardness, retention of hardness, corrosion resistance, oxidation resistance and wear resistance. The introduction of 1.2% Vanadium increases the steel's toughness and edge retention.
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Carbon V (From Cold Steel)
An exclusive carbon alloy steel, formulated and extensively treated to achieve exceptional properties. Carbon V was developed and refined by using both metallurgical and performance testing. Knife blades were subjected to the "Cold Steel Challenge" as a practical test, and then they were sectioned, so that their microstructure could be examined. In this way we arrived at the optimum steel and the optimum heat treatment sequence to bring out the best in the steel. Cold Steel buys large quantities of premium high carbon cutlery steel with small amounts of elemental alloys added in the smelting stage. These elements enhance the knife blade's performance in edge holding and elasticity. The steel is then rolled to their exact specifications to establish optimum grain refinement and knife blades are blanked to take full advantage of the grain direction in the steel.
The blanks are heated in molten salt, quenched in premium oil and tempered in controlled ovens. Then they are ground. The new knife blades are then subjected to expert heat treatment, involving rigidly controlled austenizing temperatures, precisely defined soak times, proper selection of quenching medium and carefully monitored tempering times and temperatures. This heat treatment sequence results in knife blades which duplicate and often exceed the properties of the most expensive custom forgings.
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CPM
A family of alloys with unique or enhanced properties that cannot be made by conventional steel manufacturing methods. In almost any application, CPM grades offer improved wear-resistance, toughness and grindability. CPM steels have no alloy segregation and exhibit extremely uniform carbide distribution. The types of vanadium CPM's found in many recent generations of knife blade steels include: 3V, 9V, 420V and 440V. Considered more "stiff" than ATS-34 or 154CM, but with longer edge holding properties and resistance to rust and staining.
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CPM-T440V
It is currently touted as the "super steel", it outlasts all stainless steels on the market today. It is, however, harder to re-sharpen (due to its unprecedented edge retention). But the tradeoff is that you do not have to sharpen as frequently. CPM-T440V is widely used by custom knife makers and is slowly finding its way into high-end or gentlemen's folding knives.
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DAMASCUS
A specially forged, layered steel made up of a variety of steels, It offers remarkable toughness and edge quality. For finishing, the surface layers or lines are exposed through an acid etch, which creates a very unique visual effect. Used in special applications due to its inherent high cost and artistic nature.
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D-2
Is another air hardening tool steel, but with 12% chrome and excellent, if not superb, wear resistance. A high carbon content steel for great abrasion resistance. The resistance also holds true in both sawing and grinding, even while the steel is fully annealed. D-2 anneals at somewhat higher temperature than A-2 and will not take a true, mirror polish. Definitely a steel for the advanced craftsman. Its major drawback is the orange peel appearance of the surface when finished to a high gloss. It is just below the stainless threshold so coating with BT2 adds corrosion resistance.
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G-2 Stainless
It means a Gingami (Japan) steel of very high quality.
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GIN-1
(formerly known as G2) - another low cost steel, but slightly softer than AUS-8.
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M2 High-Speed Steel
A very tough, tool grade steel used as cutting steel and offering high abrasion/wear resistance. Offers high-impact strength with incredible edge holding properties. Non-stainless by nature, but Benchmade heat-treats before applying the BT2 coating to provide a high level of corrosion resistance.
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N690
An Austrian made stainless steel, which is comparable to 440C in performance and value. Keen edge qualities with great corrosion resistance.
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Premium U.S. High Carbon (from Cold Steel)
Cold Steel's Premium Carbon Steel is used in a variety of our low cost highly functional knives. Chemical content and microstructure from the mill is specified by Cold Steel and each lot is subjected to the same metallurgical examination before being used in production as our world famous Carbon V. The Steel is a very clean, fine grained material with a high carbon content for toughness and response to heat treatment. Cold Steel has designed a special heat treatment for this material which maximizes toughness in combination with more than acceptable edge holding ability, resulting in a knife blade which will satisfy even the most discriminating user.
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Sandvik 12C27
Tool steel made in Sweden. Swedish steel has always been a premium steel for tools because the iron ore is very clean, that is to say it has very little Sulphur S or Phosphorus P in it.
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Sandvik 12C27MOD
A martensitic stainless chromium steel developed for the manufacture of kitchen tools with high wear and corrosion resistance properties. After heat treatment the steel grade is characterized by high hardness with very good wear and corrosion resistance. Sandvik 12C27Mod is used mainly for kitchen tools, such as different types of knives and scissors, which need to tolerate dishwashing.
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SAN MAI III
An expensive, traditional style Japanese laminate. Hard, high carbon stainless forms the core and edge of the knife blade, while two layers of tough, spring tempered stainless support and strengthen it. The resulting knife blade possesses the best qualities of both types of steel. This laminate is 25% stronger than the incredibly tough AUS 8A stainless. The telltale sign of genuine San Mai III is a thin line near the edge that runs the entire length of the knife blade. This line is created in the grinding process as the layers of steel in the knife blade are exposed. The distance the line is from the edge varies from knife to knife because every piece of San Mai III steel is unique. Like AUS 8A stainless, San Mai III is treated in modern, precise conveyor furnaces and subjected to a sub zero post hardening process. This improves the microstructure of the steel by eliminating retained austenite. The resulting knife blades are more elastic and have better edge holding characteristics than standard stainless
steels.
(text courtesy of Boker Knife Company)
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Stainless Steel
The only stainless that will not rust is used in sinks and hospital fittings. Any stainless that will hold an edge will be subject to humidity, salt and acid fluids. (Stainless means just that when applied to knives, it is stains less).
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SG2(Super Gold 2) Laminate Steel
SG-2 is a powdered steel, which can be tempered to an even greater strength than VG-10. It is extremely dense steel with no imperfections or weak points. This increases its Rockwell hardness to 62-63, ensuring a very sharp, smooth and durable edge.
SG2 is clad with two layers of a softer stainless steel (410) that provides additional strength, flexibility, and resistance to corrosion. The result of this structure is that SG2 blades will stay sharp longer than other steels.
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S30V
Revolutionary S30V steel blades are harder, more wear resistant and far less brittle than any standard 440C series stainless steel knife blade. Tests also show 45% better edge retention than 440C stainless.
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Talonite
Talonite is a Cobalt Chromium alloy, a member of the Haynes Alloy family, that has been treated with a new hot rolling age hardening process. Talonite is the same composition as alloy 6BH (Stellite), except for the hot rolling and age hardening. The direct age hardening after hot rolling provides maximum hardness and wear resistance. The advantages this creates are increased wear resistance, increased hardness, and improved machining characteristics. Talonite is much easier to grind than other Stellite type alloys and has improved edge retention qualities.
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X15 T.N
This French steel was developed for the aircraft industry for jet ball bearings, as well as the medical industry for scalpels. It has the ability to resist rust in the worst of conditions while maintaining ample edge retention. The capability behind this steel is in the way it is manufactured, resulting in the finest steel for use in harsh environments such as salt water. The edge on an X15 T.N blade is easier to maintain.
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0-1
Is perhaps the most forgiving of any knife quality steel other than the very simple alloy types, and produces a blade of excellent quality for most normal use. It can be heat treated very easily. Edge holding is exceptional.
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1.4116
This is a carbon, martensitic stainless steel with moderate corrosion resistance, good strength and the ability to obtain and keep excellent hardness (RC 55-57) and wear resistance.
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1070, 1095
Simple tool steels with 7/10 of 1 percent of carbon or 0.95 Carbon and little else in the alloy. Makes good springs, knives, tools etc. Much used in old time production knives.
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1095 Cro-Van
An easy to sharpen carbon steel used in knife making. Proven to be one of the most popular steels used in KA-BAR knives.
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14-4CrMO
A wear resistant, martensitic stainless tool steel that exhibits better corrosion resistance than 440C. The combination of the high carbon and molybdenum contents results in the formation of hard, wear-resistant molybdenum carbides in the microstructure of the steel. The molybdenum carbides provide superior wear resistance and edge retention for cutting tools and knives.
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20CV
A highly wear resistant, powder metallurgy stainless tool steel with a unique combination of high wear resistance, high corrosion resistance, good impact toughness, and excellent polish ability. 20CV contains 20% chromium and 4% vanadium, which is the highest level of chromium in any high vanadium stainless tool steel available today. These qualities make 20CV well suited for a wide variety of industrial and custom knife applications.
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3Cr13
This is a stainless steel. CRKT has used this steel in their Guppie and the Zilla-Tool. The Dogfish and both Triumph N.E.C.K. models also have this steel.
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154CM
The American made equivalent of ATS-34. USA made by Crucible Steel. Developed for use in military jet engine turbine blades during the war. Due to its high carbon/chromium content it offers exceptional wear and resistance. For blade use, it offers super-fine grain structure which bodes well for excellent lasting edge sharpness.
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416
A mild stainless, the knife makers choice for bolsters and guards; not suitable for blades but will take just enough hardening to make it suitable for engraving.
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420
A stainless spring steel much used in inexpensive production knives from Taiwan. Very useful in tantos and other knives. Also should be outstanding for axe heads.
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420HC
An improved form of 420 that works well with high production tooling; much used by Buck, Gerber, etc.
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420J2
Due to its low carbon high chromium content this steel is an excellent choice for making tough (bends instead of breaking), shock absorbing knife knife blades with excel lent resistance to corrosion and moderate edge holding ability. It is an ideal candidate for knife knife blades that will be subject to a wide variety of environmental conditions including high temperature, humidity, and airborne corrosives such as salt in a marine environment. This extreme resistance to corrosion via its high chrome content also makes it a perfect choice for knife blades which are carried close to the body or in a pocket and knife blades which will receive little or no care or maintenance. (text courtesy of Boker Knife Company)
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440A
A high-carbon stainless steel with about 0.7% Carbon, used in most American production knives and in some handmade knives as well; works well through tooling.
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440C
The most popular high-carbon stainless used by custom knifemakers for many years. First used by Gil Hibben about 1966. This is a great steel when properly heat-treated. It cannot, however be heat-treated with a blow-torch or welding torch.
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440XH
An air-hardening alloy with high carbon and high chromium content. It is corrosion resistant and can be described as a high hardness 440C stainless steel or corrosion resistant D2 steel. Possesses corrosion resistance equivalent to 440C.
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5160
A steel popular with forgers, it is extremely popular now and a very high-end steel. It is essentially simple spring steel with chromium added for hardenability. It has good edge holding, but is known especially for its outstanding toughness. Often used for swords (hardened in the low 50's Rc) because of its toughness, and is also used for hard use knives (hardened up near the 60's Rc).
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52100
A ball-bearing steel used by forgers. It is similar to 5160 (though it has around 1% carbon vs. 5160's-0.60%), but holds an edge better. It is less tough than 5160 however. It is used often for hunting knives and other knives where the user is willing to trade off a little of 5160's toughness for better edge holding.
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9Cr13CoMoV
A Chinese made high-carbon stainless steel with increased levels of cobalt added for greater edge retention. Offers a higher level of corrosion resistance at a great value.
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8Cr14MoV
A Chinese steel with similar performance characteristics to AUS-8. An excellent value priced steel for its performance.
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Butt/Pommel
The butt, or the pommel is the very end of the bowie knife. The butt/pommel will be found in different shapes, depending on what features it was designed to implement. Some flat metal butts/pommels are good for hammering. There are pointed metal butts/pommels, known as bonecrusher pommels used on combat fighting knives, combat tactical knives, combat survival knives and large bowie knives. They can be decorative, or contain a lanyard hole. Some butt/pommels are designed to be removed to be able to store items in the handle or may contain an additional smaller knife blade or tool.
Butt Cap
A metal cap fitted over the pommel is referred to as a butt cap.
Carbon
An element present in all steels. Increasing the carbon content increases hardness.
Choil
The choil is the unsharpened part of the knife blade. It is left at full thickness like the knife blade spine and is found where the knife blade becomes part of the handle. Sometimes the choil will be shaped (An indentation) to accept the index finger. It also allows the full edge of the knife blade to be sharpened.
Chromium
A major element in martensitic stainless steel that improves hardenability, wear resistance and corrosion resistance.
Coils
Long steel strips that come in large rolls, which are fed into Buck's fine blanking press as the first step toward making a knife blade.
Corrosion Resistance
A knife blade's ability to resist rusting, which is the result of exposure to the environment or elements.
Ductility
The knife blade's ability to flex, bend or take an impact without fracturing. If the amount of flex or bend is small before cracking or breaking, the knife blade is considered brittle.
Crink
A crink is a bend at the beginning of the tang that keeps multi-bladed pocket knives from rubbing against each other.
Edge
This is the sharpened side of the knife blade. Knife blades will have a single or double edge (or dagger style) depending on the design.
Edge Retention
A measure of the knife blade's ability to hold an edge by resisting abrasion and wear. The most objective test is the CATRA machine, a computer-controlled testing machine that gives accurate and repeatable data for an objective evaluation of edge sharpness and consistency.
Escutcheon
This is a small pin or piece of metal attached to the handle for engraving, branding, or just decoration.
False Edge
Widely used on military and combat fighting knives, a false edge blade is an additional bevel on the back of the knife blade enhancing the blade's point. This edge can be sharpened or not. The false edge can also be used for heavier cutting that might be damaging to the cutting edge.
Fine Blanking
Buck's advanced knife blade blanking system. Our fine blanking machine is used to press a knife blade out of a coil of steel using a specifically shaped die. Fine blanking produces consistently accurate parts that require little additional machining.
Guard
The guard is a separate piece of metal attached between the knife blade and the top of the handle to protect hands from the edge during cutting.
Handle Materials:
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Aluminum
Just like titanium, aluminum is also a nonferrous metal. Commonly used as handles, aluminum gives the knife a solid feel, without the extra weight. The most common form of aluminum is T6-6061, a heat treatable grade. The most common finishing process for aluminum is anodizing.
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Axis Deer (India Stag)
The smaller of the two Indian and SE Asian deer that furnish antler for the knife industry; these are all shed horn harvested in the jungle by natives.
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Bone
Created from naturally deceased animals. Bone is usually given a surface texture, most commonly in the forms of pick-bone and jigged bone. Bone can be dyed to achieve bright colors (e.g. green, blue, and black). This is the most common handle material for pocket knives.
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Carbon Fiber
Composed of thin strands of carbon, tightly woven in a weave pattern, that are set in resin. It is a highly futuristic looking material with a definite "ahhhh" factor. Of all the lightweight synthetic handle materials, carbon fiber is perhaps the strongest. The main visual attraction of this material is the ability of the carbon strands to reflect light, making the weave pattern highly visible. Carbon fiber is also a labor-intensive material that results in a rather pricey knife such as case collectible knives.
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European Stag
Antler from the Red Deer, a large elk like animal found throughout Europe. Has been used for knife handles for at least as long as there have been knives of metal, and probably long before that. This stag has never been a substitute for the antler of the axis and sambar deer of India and Southeast Asia. The European Red Deer has a very coarse and open center, much like the American elk. Because of the large amount of pith in the center, it mostly has to be used as handle scales. The antler of the Red Deer is a limited substitute for the antler of both the Axis and the Sambar, that have both been embargoed by the Indian government.
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G-10
A fiberglass based laminate. Layers of fiberglass cloth are soaked in resin and are compressed and baked. The resulting material is very hard, lightweight, and strong. Surface texture is added in the form of checkering. G-10 is an ideal material for tactical folding knives or fighting knives because of its ruggedness and lightweight. It is usually available in black.
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Jigged Bone
Bone that has had the surface cut to give a textured finish. Originally done to imitate deer antler, then in many different textures just for beauty and to give a better grip.
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Kraton
An man-made material resembling rubber that can be molded into knife handles or handle parts to offer better gripping ability.
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Micarta
The most common form is linen micarta. Similar construction as G-10. The layers of linen cloths are soaked in a Phenolic resin. The end product is a material that is lightweight, strong, as well as having a touch of class (thus dressier than G-10). Micarta has no surface texture, it is extremely smooth to the touch. It is a material that requires hand labor, which translates into a higher priced knife. Micarta is a relatively soft material that can be scratched if not treated properly.
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Mother of Pearl
The shell of the pearl oyster from the South Pacific, a popular knife handle material; expensive.
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Oosic
Walrus, dogs, bears and raccoons and probably whales and seals have a bone in their penis, this bone is called an oosic. The walrus oosic is large enough to make into knife handles and is more popular than pretty.
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Titanium
A nonferrous metal alloy, the most common form of titanium is 6AL/4V: 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, and 90% pure titanium. This is a lightweight metal alloy that offers unsurpassed corrosion resistance of any metal. It has a warm "grip you back" feel and can be finished either by anodizing or bead blasting. Aside from handles, titanium is also used as liner materials for linerlock knives for it is a rather "springy" metal. Titanium is used usually on collectible pocket knives and chef knives.
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Stag
Created from naturally shed deer antlers. When exposed to open flame, stag takes on that slightly burnt look. Very elegant material for pocket knives and gentlemen's folding knives.
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Zytel
Du Pont developed this thermoplastic material. Of all synthetic materials, ZYTEL is the least expensive to produce, which explains the abundance of work or utility knives that have this material. It is unbreakable: resists impact and abrasions. ZYTEL has a slight surface texture, but knife companies using this material will add additional, more aggressive surface texture to augment this slight texture.
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Hardenability
The steel's ability to be hardened.
Hardness
A good indicator of steel's ability to hold an edge. A knife blade's hardness is measured on the Rockwell "C" scale, a testing process described in Making a Knife.
Heat-Treat
An important series of steps in developing knife blade properties, such as toughness. For more information, please go to Heat-Treating.
Hilt
The entire handle, including the butt/pommel and the guard.
Initial Sharpness
The sharpness of the knife blade "out-of-the-box", and the sharpness that is the goal when re-sharpening.
Kick
The kick is found on a pocket knife, usually Boker pocket knives, and is the projection on the front edge of the tang, the knife blade rests here in the closed position and keep the front part the edge from hitting the spring.
Lanyard Hole
This is a hole to fit a lanyard, rope or carrying implement through.
Laser Cutting
Large knife blades and 'hard steel' knife blades are cut from sheets of steel on a state-of-the-art computer-controlled laser machine that has the capacity to "laser out" knife blades to a specified shape.
Lashing Grommets⁄Jimping
These terms refer to notches that are designed into the back lower part of the knife blade for better thumb control.
LOCKING MECHANISMS AND TYPES
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Axis Lock
The features of the AXIS lock are significant and greatly enhance the function of knives. First and foremost is the strength. This lock is definitely more than adequate for the demands of normal knife use. A close second to strength is the inherent AXIS advantage of being totally ambidextrous without user compromise. The knife blade can be readily actuated open or closed with either hand - without ever having to place flesh in the knife blade path. Lastly, and certainly not any less impressive, is the indescribable 'smoothness' with which the mechanism and blade function. By design there are no traditional 'friction' parts to the AXIS mechanism, making the action the much smoother. And it's all reasonably exposed so you can easily clean away any unwarranted debris. Basically, AXIS gets its function from a spring-loaded bar that rides forward and back in a slot machined into both liners. The bar extends to both sides of the knife; spanning the space between the liners and is positioned over the rear of the knife blade. It engages a ramped notch cut into the tang portion of the knife blade when it is opened. Two omega style springs, one on each liner, give the locking bar its inertia to engage the knife tang, and as a
result the tang is wedged solidly between a sizable stop pin and the AXIS bar itself. It's a lot of words in an attempt to describe simplicity, but the very best way to truly appreciate the AXIS lock is to experience it firsthand. There are several models to choose from with more on the way.
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Balisong
Also known as Butterfly Knives. The handle to this style knife is in two separate pieces and pinned to the tang. A third pin fixes between both sides to lock the knife blade into an open position.
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Block Lock
This folder lock has a spring loaded block located on the center pin. The block extends into a hole in the tang to lock the knife blade open.
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Clasp
This style folding knife has no lock or back-spring.
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Lock-back
This style of lock has a spring-loaded locking bar with a tooth at the end. The tooth falls into the notch cut into the knife blade tang and is held there under the spring tension. A cut out in the handle spine houses the release for the lock. These locks generally require 2 hands to unlock and close.
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Locking Liner
(a.k.a. liner-locks) This particular locking system was refined by knife maker Michael Walker. The actual locking mechanism is incorporated in the liner of the handle, hence the name. If there is a metal sheet inside the handle material, it is called a liner. With a locking liner, opening the knife blade will allow this metal to flex over and butt against the base of the knife blade inside the handle, locking it open. Moving this liner aside will release this lock allowing the knife blade to close. Disengagement of the lock is performed with the thumb, allowing for one handed, hassle free action. Locking liners are commonly found on tactical folding knives, both production and custom.
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Ring-lock
This design has been around since the 1890's. The Ringlock is similar to the Slipjoint, but it has a rotating slipring instead of a backspring.
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Rolling Lock
This design uses a sort of bearing that rolls into the locked position.
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Sebenza Lock
The concept of this lock is comparable to the Liner Lock. A hollowed out section of the scale is fixed into the handle cavity to lock the knife blade open.
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Slip-joint
The slip-joint is one of the more common designs for folding and pocket knives. Instead of a lock, the slip-joint utilizes a back-spring to create resistance to hold the knife blade open.
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Swinglock
There is one pivot pin and one locking pin used to design this style lock.
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Wood Lock
This lock was designed by Barry Wood. The handles and knife blade are attached to a central pin and pivot independently. A second pin is fixed into the inside of one scale and extends into slot in the tang to lock the knife blade open.
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Manufacturability
The ease in which steel can be machined, blanked, ground and heat-treated.
Mark Side
This is another pocket knife term and is the side of the knife blade with the nail mark.
Martensitic
Steels capable of being brought to a very hard condition are called martensitic steels. This type is best suited for knife blades. See Heat-Treating for more explanation.
Molybdenum
An element added to steel to improve hardenability, tensile strength and resistance to corrosion and pitting.
Nickel
An alloy addition that improves steel's toughness, hardenability and corrosion resistance. Nickel is a major element in steel used for kitchen cutlery and dive knives.
Nail Mark/Nail Nick
On a pocket knife blade the nail mark is a groove cut into the blade so that it can be opened using your fingernail. Most Case pocket knives use this method of opening the knife blade.
Obverse Side
The obverse side is the front or display section of a knife.
Pile Side
The reverse side of the knife blade, opposite of the obverse side.
Pen Blade
The pen knife blade is the smallest blade on a multi-bladed knife.
Plate
Flat sheets of steel that are turned into knife blades by laser cutting.
Point
The tip of the knife blade. For more information see Blade Shapes.
Pocket Blade
This is the largest knife blade on a multi-bladed knife.
Properties
Refers to such things as hardenability, ductility and toughness, which are established by the particular chemistry of the steel and the proper, heat-treat process. Properties most important to knife blades are covered in this glossary.
Quillon
The quillon is the area of the guard that extends past the section surrounding the tang and is the most protective part of the guard.
Ricasso
The ricasso is the flat section of the knife blade between the guard and the start of the bevel. This is where you will most often find the tang stamp.
Rockwell
A hardness-testing machine that forces a small penetrator into the surface. The depth of penetration correlates to a scale reading, the scale normally used for knife blades is the "C" scale written as "Rc". The higher the number, the harder the steel. Most knife blade steels are in the range of Rc 58-61.
Scales
The scales are pieces that are attached to a full tang to form the handle.
Scrimshaw
Scrimshaw is the art of etching decorative designs into ivory or simulated ivory handles.
Serrated Edge
Serrations are a set of "teeth" or notches on the back or front of the knife blade to aid in cutting.
Stainless Steel
The common term "stainless" is misleading. More accurately, it should be called "stain less" because it is not "stain free." In certain environments, any steel with carbon will rust. Stainless steel's corrosion-resistant properties make it a good material for knife blades.
Strength
Steel's ability to resist applied forces.
Swedge
A swedge is a bevel on the back of the knife blades.
Tang-Stamp
This is an imprinting that can show style number, collector's number, manufacturer's name. This is normally located on the ricasso.
Tempering
The final step in the heat-treat process to improve toughness.
Tensile Strength
Ability to resist breaking. Ultimate Tensile Strength is the maximum load per square inch a knife blade can sustain before breaking.
Toughness
A knife blade's ability to absorb energy by impact prior to fracturing.
Titanium
Unlike stainless steel knives, titanium knives are almost completely rustproof and corrosion resistant because they contain no carbon. The result is a knife that will hold an edge for a very long time. Titanium steel knives require almost no sharpening or maintenance.
Vanadium
A material added to steel to improve hardenability and promote fine grain, an important factor in wear resistance.
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Due to the complex and changing nature of knife laws, it is your responsibility, not HIGH CALIBER KNIVES', to investigate and comply with international, federal, state and local laws relating to the purchase, possession, use, transport and resale of knives. Consult applicable laws if you are in doubt. By placing an order, you represent that the product(s) will be used in a lawful manner and you are of legal age. Absolutely no sales will be made to minors. You agree to hold HIGH CALIBER KNIVES harmless from failure to comply with these terms and conditions of sale.
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